An Introduction To The Small Isles
Four islands make up the Small Isles; Eigg, Rùm, Muck and Canna. Together they make for a photogenic island seascape from the shore around Arisaig; Rum’s jagged volcanic Cuillin mountains contract with low-lying Muck, and Eigg’s iconic ‘An Sgùrr’ ridgeline. The islands are much less visited than neighbouring Skye yet have equally spectacular scenery.
Eigg is the most populated, with around 100 residents. There is a strong community spirit here, especially thanks to a 1997 community buy-out of the island from an absentee landlord. The island is powered almost completely by renewable energy generated on the island, with three hydro generation systems and a wind farm. The skyline of Eigg is dominated by the Sgùrr, a steep-sided ridge that juts prominently out of the otherwise low-lying island. This unique feature is the relic of a lava flow that filled a valley, cooling and solidifying. As it solidified, it formed basalt columns like those at Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland and on Staffa near Mull. The valley sides on either side, made of softer rock than the hard, igneous lava flow between them, eroded over millenia leaving only the rock that once flowed into the valley remaining. The Sgùrr is most striking when viewed from the eastern end, known as the nose of the Sgùrr.
Rùm is the largest of the islands and the most mountainous; its jagged peaks, known as the Cuillin (not to be confused with the mountains of the same name on Skye) are the remnants of ancient volcanic activity. The population of 22 is outnumbered by about 40 to 1 by red deer, for which the island is famous. The island’s history of inhabitants goes back as early as the 8th century – in fact some of the earliest evidence of human habitation in Britain has been found here. Rùm has some unusually grand architecture for such a small and sparsely populated island; a relic of ownership by wealthy lairds. The Bullouch mausoleum looks like it would be more at home in Greece, whilst Kinloch castle’s gigantic red sandstone structure would house the island’s whole population with room to spare!
Muck is home to just 27 residents and is low-lying compared to its neighbours; its highest peak is just 137m. More populous is the island’s seal population, and porpoises are known to frequent its waters too – making it a popular location for spotting marine life.
With just 18 inhabitants, Canna is the least populated of the small isles. Despite this, the island is home to Gaelic archives, a farm and conservation area, three churches and a converted garden shed that now serves as the post office! A small, unstaffed shop operates on an ‘honesty’ basis, providing residents with basic supplies. Public services don’t quite reach here as they do on the mainland – a doctor visits twice a month, and a policeman twice a year (mainly to inspect gun licences). Cars on Canna do not need to pay road tax as the roads are privately owned. The island’s school closed in 2017 after all of its four pupils left the island. The highest point on the island is Càrn a’ Ghaill (Scottish Gaelic for rocky hill of the storm), and the island is known for its basalt columns similar to those on Eigg. In part because of Canna’s low human population, wildlife thrives here. Sea eagles, golden eagles, peregrine falcons and merlins patrol the skies, while puffins nest in burrows on the coastline. Dolphins and whales can be spotted in its waters, particularly in the summer months.
The four Small Isles may not be as well-known as Skye and Mull, but are undoubtedly among the most interesting to visit among Scottish islands. Despite a low population, the community is thriving here and alongside it, wildlife abounds. Fascinating geology makes for spectacular landscapes on all four islands.
Find out more about this amazing part of Scotland here >>
Photo courtesy of Tony Hardley Photography
